Saturday, March 20, 2010

SaLvAtIoN video



Guest Post: Rob was climbing in the gym the other day in preparation for his send of the route, Noodle Bowl and on an impulse called me and our climbing partner, Ian, down to shoot him climbing a lap. While Ian shot some beast stills I was on my tripod with his little point-and-shoot camera trying to get some footage. Unfortunately the tripod wasn't set up quite right so the footage was a little odd. To make up for the mistakes I made in the camera work I took the junk into iMovie and added some effects. After that I worked around in garage band with some of the default loops and created an alright tune to go with the video. Near the end I got lazy and put in Slipknot. Anyways, I hope you enjoy the video here, and feel free to see another climbing video of Rob I created at this link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvIj_LU-d_g&annotation_id=annotation_81932&feature=iv
I hope you enjoy and feel free to post any suggestions or comments you have.
(anything negative or hateful will be dealt with. Constructive criticism only please.)
Thanks for all your support of Rob over the years fans, and if you haven't already become a fan on Facebook here, at your leisure of course- http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/pages/Rob-Cordery-Cotter/30257156314?ref=ts

-Cormac C-C

Friday, March 19, 2010

Reflections on a Season

Winter is now pretty much a wrap I say this because even though there is a blizzard outside spring officially begins tomorrow. By now I have been climbing ice for 5 months: I see no immediate abatement in this trend as the mountains from floor 5 of research tower 2 seem utterly plastered each morning's new light.

And what a season...

Hyalite, Vail, Ouray, Rocky, Redstone I did it all, me, Simone, Cormac and an overstuffed Mini Cooper up and down the Rockies. I competed, sent, climbed with one of the planet's most beautiful women and in general scared the shit out of myself and what colossal fun it has been. Just Monday Vito, Cormac and I hiked to Hidden Falls (twice) sky so azure blue it hurt to look at come to settle the score with a new 5-bolt wonder. Tentatively referred to as Two Stoned Guys and a Drill the route was conceived of by Ryan Bogus then hand-bolted by Eli Helmuth hence the name. I am feeling a little bad about climbing everyone else routes though I now occupy some role in the west as an arbiter of the freshly drilled. I have had limited success with some of these routes projects for future days on the hill you shouldn't (maybe) get to sleep with every woman so it must go with dry-tooling lines.

A trend did emerge though in that the farmed recycled route in Ouray and the bolts-to-nowhere Hyalite line did not peak my interest which brought it home that I am and will die an ice-climber dry-tooling with no ice finish is in my mind too much fore-play sans consummation. To this end I climbed several ice climbs just one-pitch waterfalls mind you but a giddy reminder of more harrowing past exploits. More importantly I learned to climb anew taking the F2s everywhere nary a day going by when I did not caress and hold them.

The last outing to Rockie was a bit weird in that I had begun to doubt my 2s why was this reach so hard for me? I felt strong but I hurled myself at the objective making for some sore arms but no send thus fiendishly repeating a trend seen at the end of 2008-09 season. I have good or bad days my degree of fatigue from work or the crew I am with all having profound affect on how I climb. And maybe I am just not strong/clever/motivated who can say? I suppose if every outing were a known entity in advance there would be little point in going so little element of adventure contained therein. Dry-tooling has that effect on me all bravado in the car snug warm listening to Turbulence "Blood Dem Out" this changes sweating-huffing-puffing-chilling (literally) under looming stone the clips dishearteningly distant.

Mind you I train for this consider myself "professional" at least in how I approach my climbing thus when I get stuffed I have no one to blame but myself. Really though I feel a little starved of spectacle having climbed mostly with other Americans a drab affair to watch them in their crow-black pants all climbing exactly alike grasping mid-shaft and squeezing as tight as possible. My three-hour session with Ines (okay Simone, 4) the one bright spot her minimalist style calm pauses near yoga-like in execution better always to live comfortably/sanely in your own head.

Probably I just no longer give a rats ass for what anyone else is doing if a route appeals then yields this was what suited me if not on to the next potential conquest.