I have used four different sets on my wall so I will discuss each set and their application, I am not endorsing any use I engage in with these holds so if you wreck your holds or knock your teeth out dry-tooling indoors on plastic then bear in mind dry-tooling is a winter pursuit and as such a dangerous one...
1. 13 Pack Sandstone: I only have ever used this set for dry-tooling as such they are pretty chewed up. Still they have been by far and away the most interesting set for this application of all time. Multifaceted with two aspects to many of the holds (you can flip them for a different hold) they have weathered the onslaught well, one hold broke early on when STRUCK by a guest who was climbing a tad too seriously and even that hold design has been replaced in the current set array. Another nice feature is most of this set have the pockets/edges ON the hold, they do not use the wooden panel as the back of the hold to be chewed up by tool use.They are also nearly indestructible, the two slopers provide sketch, have the crash-pad in situ when you huck for these. Probably their best set for determined dry-tool use. See them here:
http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/products/215-13-pack-sandstone-climbing-holds.aspx
2. 10 Pack Sandstone Jugs: I never dry-tool on this set, they are too lovely for hand-climbing mostly I have been using them on my power panel but lately they have been migrating over to the super panel where they are ideal for glove climbing on the 45 degree surface. Being super in-cut and sharp they can be a little brutal but are so roomy you can "hool" on them (i.e., grab the hold with your fingers while still clutching the tool by the shaft, a handful but that describes my life to a T). I have these in earth tones which are very groovy for the natural wood panel, like everything Atomik makes they are super strong, in the past I have arranged these in pairs as pull-up sets on the power panel but I try and obey the maxim "A climbing wall is not a museum" so I move things about to hold interest. An amazing set, these would be buckets for dry-tooling...
http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/products/213-10-pack-sandstone-jug-climbing-holds.aspx
3. 12 pack Large Divot Jugs: A newer set I am still setting, these are rounded open jugs with a big radius, all very sensual and at times challenging to use on the super panel. Mind you I am looking to make my training rigorous, I have been on too many cruel outings to think things are going to be easy on the hill so I plan accordingly. I don't dry-tool on these either, they are too pretty what in their Halloween color-scheme, instead I intersperse them amid straight-on dry-tooling holds. I NEVER mix use, if its a hold for dry-tooling so be it, if for hand climbing then no tools may sully the polyurethane. The beauty of these is the thumb divot which looks hokey but actually works brilliantly and how much fun it is to come flying off an 8 X 8 panel, just like real climbing...
http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/products/292-12-pack-large-divot-jugs-climbing-holds.aspx
4. Simple 7 Large Jugs: A misnomer as there is nothing simple about these, they are cruel as intermediate holds amplifying the torment on le panel super why do in two moves which you can more assuredly fail on in four? Maddeningly tough to hang from I give it 50:50 when I head for one of these, sure I should be stronger but this is training, right? So let the games begin! In short I saw French ice-climbing legend Stephane Husson first seamlessly combine open-hand with dry-tooling a consequence of the then less than totally secure Ergo offset by the Gallic passion for limestone sport climbing. These holds are all that and a bag of chips...
http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/products/165-simple-7-large-jugs.aspx
Holds I'd Like to Try: Atomik makes very nice sets, none of this 5-hold sets where you get two good shapes, one so-so and two crap shapes that seem to be the norm for most hold peddlers. Also they are not governed by a bunch of effete indoor-outdoor bouldering snobs who spend all their days making repetitive "send" videos and shaving themselves. The 12 pack Limestone Jugs look marvelous also the 12 Patina Pinches Pinches/Edges Dishes/Jugs look swell for the next dry-tool set (although some will need backing to avoid wrecking the wood). It is more a matter of having time to set these rather than affording them as they are quite inexpensive for what you are getting. I would also like to see Atomik develop a dry-tool specific line of plastic specifically for dry-tooling the Russians already have...
Lastly indoor is for me more than just training it is the lab where new ideas and techniques are sussed. I don't want to necessarily be a better climber (whatever that entails) but I want my climbing to evolve and remain interesting. To this end indoor should be aesthetic with nice holds to climb on visually stimulating which is where color comes in, Atomik making some very nice shapes in very rich tones. For every hour I spend on the hill I likely spend 5 training, so with those numbers in mind the training thing has to be at least entertaining...
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